Leanne Garrity, from Chi Chi Dee Handmade, shows us how to tie a pretty headscarf. Perfect for springtime up-dos!

Find out how to make a headscarf from your own fabric in issue 22 of Gathered by Mollie Makes, available to download now from the iTunes Store.

Learn how to crochet

Free craft projects

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Bookbinding is the perfect way to transform leftover fabric, card, wrapping paper and more into a lovely gift for yourself or someone else. Although some parts of this guide features steps in InDesign, there’s no reason why you couldn’t skip over those bits and simply follow the stitching guides to build your beautiful booklet.

Software needed

Adobe InDesign (CS3 or later) – access the free trial from Adobe

Bookbinding materials

Cutting mat, metal ruler, bookbinding needle & linen thread, glue & brush, paper, scalpel, bookbinding awl, fraynot, bone folder

Shepherds Falkiners is a good source for bookbinding materials

Step 1 First, set up your book’s page template in InDesign by creating a new document. The page size, columns and margins will depend on your preference, but remember to add an extra 10mm to the inside margin (to accommodate the stitching) and a 3mm bleed if you intend to print to the edge of the page. Also, make sure the Facing Pages box is ticked so you can view your design as a spread.

Step 2 When you’re ready to print, export your document as a PDF and, under Marks and Bleeds, tick Crop Marks, and Use Document Bleed Settings. The pages need to be printed double-sided – either via your printer settings or by manually printing all odd pages, then all evens. Experiment with paper stocks to see which works best. With the pages in the correct order, draw a line on the top page to mark the top and bottom between the crop marks, and use a scalpel to cut through the inner crop page marks closest to the spine.

Depending on the number of pages and paper stock you use, you can cut through multiple pages at a time. If you have lots of pages, divide them into sections and mark the top of each section.

Step 3 Draw a line from the top to the bottom of the page, 5mm in from the spine – this is where the pages will be stitched. Along that line, mark a dot 10mm from the top and one 10mm from the bottom, then put some evenly spaced dots in between these. We created three holes spaced apart by roughly 5cm, but the number of holes you need will vary, depending on the height of your page. Tap the top of the pages against a flat surface to ensure they are flush, lay them flat and pierce through the dots carefully, using a bookbinding awl. Keep the awl as straight as possible when piercing through the pages to make it easier to sew.

Step 4 To stitch the pages, using a bookbinding needle and linen thread, four times the page height. Thread your needle, piercing the thread 1cm from the end and pulling tight instead of tying a knot. Starting at the middle hole, push the needle up through the back of your pages, leaving a 10cm loose thread remaining. Go around the spine and back up through the same hole, holding the loose thread to keep the pages tight.

Go to the next hole in either direction, thread your needle down, around and back up through, then along to the next hole. Repeat this process to the end, then weave the thread back along the length to the centre, ensuring it runs along the length of the spine on both sides. At the middle hole, repeat this process along the second half of the book. End back at the middle hole and tie off using the loose thread. Cut off any remaining thread about 1cm from the knot.

Step 5 You’re now ready to glue the spine. Place your book between two clean boards – or a couple of heavy books – to press your pages flat, making sure the spine sticks out a little. With a paintbrush, paste the spine with a fine layer of PVA glue (thinned with a dash of water) and leave it for 20 minutes to dry. Make sure the glue doesn’t collect around the edge of the pages, as this may stop them opening properly. When the spine is dry, remove it from your DIY bookpress and use the scalpel to trim off the excess paper beyond the crop marks.

Step 6 Once your pages are cropped, measure and cut a piece of fraynot to line the spine. It should be the same length as your pages, and wide enough to wrap around the spine, covering the stitching on both sides with a few millimetres spare. With the fraynot cut to size, place it down on a flat surface and paste with glue, then position it over the stitching. Flip your book over and wrap around the spine. Rub a bone folder along the spine, pressing the fraynot against it.

Step 7 You need two endpapers that attach to the main body of the book, which the cover will wrap around. They should be the height of your book and twice the width (plus 1mm to allow for folding), but consider your choice of stock. Cut it to the required size, measure out the middle and score it with a bone folder. Fold it in half and press it flat. Place some scrap paper over the top, just beyond the fraynot, and paste this section with glue.

Next, place your endpaper over the top, aligned to your page, ensuring the fold is on the same side as the spine. Flip your book and repeat this process for the second endpaper, at the back, and place it between two books to dry.

Step 8 Create a new document in InDesign for the cover design, set to the height of your pages and four times the width (plus the measurement of your spine), with a 3mm bleed around the edges. Drag two guides into the centre to indicate where the spine will be, then measure the width of a page out from either side of this to show where the gatefolds will be. The front cover is the second panel in from the right. As before, when you exporting the PDF, don’t forget to include crop marks and bleed.

Step 9 When your cover has been designed and printed, cut it out with a metal ruler and scalpel using the crop marks. Measure out where the central spine folds will be and use a bone folder to score and fold one of them. Place your book against this fold to double-check the measurement is okay, then score and fold over the second. Push the spine of your book into the spine of the cover and mark out where your first gatefold should be. Score and fold with a bone folder, turn your book over and then repeat this for the second gatefold.

Step 10 To finish off the cover you could print the title of your book and your name on a sticker. Alternatively, this type of bookbinding offers multiple alternatives: you could cut out a shape to reveal the inner endpaper, wrap a ‘belly band’ around the cover or encase your book in a poster that the recipient could remove and keep as a limited edition print. There is also the opportunity to include gatefolds or pages that open out within the book… the options are endless!

About the author Karen Lewis is a Bristol-based freelance designer with a passion for typography and print. From creating unique wooden type blocks to adding glitter to screenprints, Karen enjoys exploring and experimenting with materials.

This tutorial originally appeared in Computer Arts issue 200, available to buy online now.

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Try something old; learn something new. That’s The Amazings’ motto and we’re so down with that!

We had a chat with seamstress Judith Paris, one super Amazing, to find out more about how she’s sharing knack and knowledge

Judith Paris, teacher for The Amazings.

How did you first learn your craft? Was it through work or did it start out as a hobby?

From my mum who was a tailor. She let me loose on her materials and sewing machine from the age of four.  I have always sewn, always hoarded cloth, always made my own clothes and recycled charity shop buys.

What made you want to pass on your knowledge to other people?

Realising how few young people know how to sew, but want to be designers. I like helping older people rekindle their skills then get old and young together.

How many and what lessons have you taught so far?

With The Amazings, just three: two making wallets and purses and one making hammocks from recycled curtains and vintage chintz.  I also helped my husband run a cooking workshop for The Amazings. But as Thrifty Couture, I have been running workshops for recycling clothes for two years in my own workshop and at festivals like Start. I also run master classes for local schools and colleges.

Sharing her skills.

What sort of feedback did you get from the class?

For hammocks, good!  For wallets lots of positive tweets.

How did you feel it went?

Really well – we always run over time, but I love it, and if the students aren’t in a rush it’s good just to amble.

What advantages do you feel a scheme like this offers people?

The Amazings is a great catalyst for getting people of all ages and backgrounds together again.

Making bags and purses with the next generation.

Check out her skills!

Would you recommend it to fellow and wannabe crafters?

Of course! It is a great initiative and I have referred lots of mates to The Amazings’ site to sign up as facilitators or to take part.

Have you noticed any changes in yourself as a result of taking part in The Amazings?

Not really – just fired me up to do more!

What’s next for you?

More workshops with young kids, eight or nine years old, making ‘kugis’ or dressing up suits made to look like fantastic animals (I’m calling the workshops The Animal in Me) and Splash Bike workshops for 80 kids in the summer holidays.

Check out Judith at work

Go to an Amazings’ class

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Make it a handmade Thanksgiving.

We’ve rounded up a few Thanksgiving table decorations tutorials that will help you make this year a handmade Thanksgiving.

[Clockwise from top left] These leafy placemats by Making Nice In The Midwest would look fantastic on an oak table. Create veggie cross stitch placecards The Making Spot with a ‘Thank you’ note for every guest. We love the fabric Stuff Steph Does used for this napkin. Upcycle some old glass jars and make these cute salt and pepper pots from Maria Just Do It. String some fall leaf garlands by All Parenting around the house, or drape it over guests’ seats. Knit an acorn – no – a mega acorn Thanksgiving centerpiece! Over at Tried & True they’ve shown us how to make something so awesome it’s almost unfair that we didn’t think of it first.

Happy making!

Veggie? Try our felt turkey

More moodboards

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Just click on the image below to download them. Keep warm and toasty!

Bow leg warmers template here

Issue 4 of Gathered By Mollie Makes is packed full of content for you to explore. Happy crafting xx

Subscribe to Gathered

Check out more craft projects

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Issue 20's project template

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You’ll need:

Wool felt (or even a different fabric if you fancy)

A hot glue gun

A pin back

Scissors

A needle and thread

Step 1

Step 1 Cut the felt into little five-petal flowers. These will be the petals for the final flower. You’ll need four that are roughly about the size you want the finished flower to be. Then cut two more petals that are slightly smaller.

You’ll also need two circles – a big one that will be the foundation of your flower (make this and a smaller one that should fit inside the width of the pin back.

Trim the circle into a five-petal flower

Here’s how to cut the five-petal flowers shapes. Cut the felt into circles that are slightly larger than you expect the finished flower to be. Then cut five little divots to make the petal shapes. If you want, you can draw the design on first with a pencil and then cut along the inside of the line.

Step 2 part I

Step 2 part II

Step 2 Now take one of your large petal pieces and fold it in half. Then fold it in half again so that it’s triangular in shape. Place the tip of the folded petal in the center of the foundation circle and stitch in place starting from the back. Don’t tie off or cut the thread, continue using it for the entire flower. Repeat with the other three petal pieces, arranging them so that they cover the entire circle.

Step 3

Step 3 Now take one of the smaller petal pieces and place it on top (without folding). Secure in place by stitching it from the back, slightly off center, and then back down making sure the stitch is about a millimeter or two wide. When you pull the thread tightly, it will pull the center of the flower in and push the petals upward.

Step 4

Step 4 Take the last petal piece, fold it in half and then roll it into a cone. Stitch in place by threading the needle through the center of the flower out toward the tip of the cone. Now fix the cone to the center of the flower. Repeat the stitch a few more times, then tie off and cut the thread at the back of the flower.

Step 5 part I

Step 5 part II

Step 5 Heat up your glue gun and adhere the pin back to the back of the flower. Use the smaller circle to hide those unsightly stitches by hot gluing it over the width of the pin back.
At this point you could adapt the shape of the flower and its petals by trimming it a bit. Then you’re done! Add it to anything for a fun finishing touch.

All images © 2012 You & Mie

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Jenny Dixon’s Liberty leaves are adorable. Not only are they great for using up fabric scraps, they make a great bed for the Mollie Makes hedgehog! In addition to the batch Jenny designed for issue 19, this bonus sprig is a fab freebie for all Mollie Makes readers. Simply head on over to her blog to download this free tutorial.

Once you’re done, don’t forget to flaunt your foliage! Share through our official Facebook wall, Twitter page and Instagram (@MollieMakes). Happy making!

Luxury leafage for an evergreen autumn

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Halloween flags

Halloween party in the offing? Need some inspiration and party decor ideas?We have just the trick and the treat right here…

Here’s the perfect way to scare and impress your guests at the same time. Sizzix has come up with a range of free Halloween projects for you to download and make. They’re all super-easy template based projects which can be used for all kinds of decorations, party bags, bunting, invitations or table settings. Get ready to spook your guests.

Mwah-ha-ha-ha-hahh!

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