Fox slippers knitting pattern

Wool Week day 6: Knit fox slippers

Slippers: not just for winter. Treat your feet to a pair of fox slippers with Louise Walker’s friendly fox slippers

We’ve all owned a pair (or two) of novelty slippers before – now we’ve got a more grown up version thanks to one of our fave knitters Louise Walker (AKA Sincerely Louise). These friendly foxes are surprisingly easy to knit – it’s just a few stitches with a bit of decreasing and increasing.

To make bigger slippers try using a worsted yarn and the suggested needle size, and for smaller feet use a sport or fingering weight.

How to make fox slippers

You’ll need:
• Bergere de France Ideal, 40% Wool/30% Acrylic/30% Polyamide, 50g/125m per ball, two balls in Vitamine (24109) (main orange colour (M)), two balls in Meije (51253)
(contrast cream colour), small quantity in Truffle (22002) (black colour)
• Scrap yarn markers in four colours – A,B,D,E
• Pair of 2.5mm (US 1½) knitting needles
• Pair of 3.5mm (US 4) knitting needles
• Tapestry needle

Tension
24 sts and 31 rows to 10cm (4″) measured over stocking stitch on 3.5mm needles.

Abbreviations (UK)
k knit
p purl
kfb knit into the front and the back of the stitch
skp slip a stitch, knit a stitch, pass stitch over
k2tog knit two stitches together
M main colour
C contrast colour
p(number)M purl number of sts in M
k(number)M knit number of sts in M
p(number)C purl number of sts in C
k(number)C knit number of sts in C

Finished size
To fit an adult woman size 39 (UK 6, US 9)

Instructions
The main slipper is made in one piece and the ears, tail and nose made separately. Finally all pieces are sewn together.

Slipper (make two)

Using the long tail cast on method and 2.5mm needles cast on 72 sts in M, this will form the first row of knitting. Work all stitches in M until otherwise stated. The first 8 rows of the pattern are worked in a 2 x 2 rib, with the cast on row counting as ‘Row 1’.

Row 2 *k2, p2; repeat from * to end

Rows 3 to 8 repeat Row 2 Change to 3.5mm needles. To form the shape of the slipper, three sts are increased either side of the central part; there are 27 sts either side of the increase sections and 6 sts in the centre. You’ll see how they are formed after the first couple of rows.

Row 9 k27, (kfb, k1) three times, k6, (k1, kfb) three times, k27 [78 sts]

Row 10 (and all even rows unless otherwise stated) p

Row 11 k27, (kfb, k2) three times, k6, (k2, kfb) three times, k27 [84 sts]

Row 13 k27, (kfb, k3) three times, k6, (k3, kfb) three times, k27 [90 sts]

Row 15 k27, (kfb, k4) three times, k6, (k4, kfb) three times, k27 [96 sts]

Row 17 k27, (kfb, k5) three times, k6, (k5, kfb) three times, k27 [102 sts]

Row 18 purl, adding scrap yarn markers (colour A) on the 43st and 54nd stitches and scrap yarn markers (colour B) on the 59th and 70th stitches. These are a small amount of yarn tied to the instructed stitches and will be used as a guide later when placing the features.

Row 19 k27, (kfb, k6) three times, k6, (k6, kfb) three times, k27 [108 sts]

Row 21 k27, (kfb, k7) three times, k6, (k7, kfb) three times, k27 [114 sts]

Row 23 k27, (kfb, k8) twice, kfb, k22 adding scrap yarn markers (colour D) on the 5th and 8th stitches and scrap yarn markers (colour E) on the 15th and 18th stitches, (kfb, k8) twice, kfb, k27 [120 sts]

Changing colour

When changing colour either use the intarsia method or carry the yarn along the back of the piece. We carried the orange across the cream colour changes, attaching a second thread of cream yarn on the other section when needed. Be sure to keep the yarn loose or it’ll pull the piece. The contrast colour is added where the pattern changes, using M for the main colour and C for the contrast. The cream cheeks are knitted in garter st (knit on each row), however when adding the cream on the wrong side, purl it, then change to knit for the already formed cream sts, as the pattern instructs. This ensures no ‘wrong side’ garter bumps are added on the right side of the piece.

Row 25 k27M, kfb in M, k9M, kfb in M, k4M, k5C, kfb in M, k24M, kfb in M, k5C, k4M, kfb in M, k9M, kfb in M, k27M [126 sts]

Row 26 p44M, k5C, p4C, p20M, p4C, k5C, p44M

Row 27 k44M, k11C, k16M, k11C, k44M

Row 28 p44M, k11C, p2C, p12M, p2C, k11C, p44M

Row 29 k44M, k14C, k10M, k14C, k44M

Row 30 p45M, k13C, p1C, p8M, p1C, k13C, p45M

Row 31 k46M, k13C, k8M, k13C, k8M

Row 32 p47M, k12C, p8M, k12C, p47M

Row 33 k48M, k11C, k8M, k11C, k48M

Row 34 p49M, k10C, p8M, k10C, p49M

Row 35 k50M, k9C, k8M, k9C, k50M

Row 36 p51M, k8C, p8M, k8C, p51M

Row 37 k52M, k8C, k6M, k8C, k52M

Row 38 p53M, k7C, p6M, k7C, p53M

Row 39 k54M, k7C, k4M, k7C, k54M

Row 40 p55M, k6C, p4M, k6C, p55M

Row 41 cast off in M and weave in the loose ends.

Ears, front panels (make two)

Using the long tail cast on method and 3.5mm needles cast on 12 sts in M, this will form the first row.

Row 2 p

Row 3 k3M, k6C, k3M

Row 4 p3M, p6C, p3M. Repeat the last two rows three more times.

Row 11 k1M, skp in M, k1M, k4C, k1M, k2tog in M, k1M [10 sts]

Row 12 p3M, p4C, p3M

Row 13 k1M, skp in M, k1M, k2C, k1M, k2tog in M, k1M [8 sts]

Row 14 p3M, p2C, p3M

Row 15 work all sts in M from here on. k1, skp, k2, k2tog, k1 [6 sts]

Row 16 p

Row 17 k1, skp, k2tog, k1 [4 sts]

Row 18 p

Row 19 cast off and weave in the loose ends.

Ears, back panels (make two)

Using the long tail cast on method and 3.5mm needles cast on 12 sts in M, this will form the first row.

Row 2 p

Rows 3 to 10 work in st st (k one row, p one row)

Row 11 k1, skp, k6, k2tog, k1 [10 sts]

Row 12 p

Row 13 k1, skp, k4, k2tog, k1 [8 sts]

Row 14 p

Row 15 k1, skp, k2, k2tog, k1 [6 sts]

Row 16 p

Row 17 k1, skp, k2tog, k1 [4 sts]

Row 18 p

Row 19 cast off and weave in ends.

Tail

Using the long tail cast on method and 3.5mm needles cast on 12 sts in M, this will form the first row.

Row 2 and all even rows p

Row 3 *kfb, k2; repeat from *to end [16 sts]

Row 5 *kfb, k3; repeat from * to end [20 sts]

Row 7 *kfb, k4; repeat from * to end [24 sts]

Row 9 k

Row 11 k

Row 13 k

Row 15 work all stitches in C from here on, *k4, k2tog; repeat from * to end [20 sts]

Row 17 *k3, k2tog; repeat from * to end [16 sts]

Row 19 *k2, k2tog; repeat from * to end [12 sts]

Row 21 *k1, k2tog; repeat from * to end [8 sts]

Row 23 *k2tog; repeat from * to end [4 sts]

Row 24 cast off purlwise and weave in the loose ends.

Nose

Using the long tail cast on method and 3.5mm needles cast on 12 sts in black, this will form the first row.

Row 2 p

Row 3 *k2tog; repeat from * to end [6 sts]

Row 4 p

Row 5 *k2tog; repeat from * to end [3 sts]

Row 6 cast off purlwise and weave in the loose ends.

Making up

Step 1
Lay the slipper flat and place the two sides together, forming an oval. Then sew up the back seam, from the cast on edge to the cast off edge. Sew up using a mattress stitch in M. Take a front ear piece and back ear piece and place wrong sides (WS) together. Pin and sew up in a mattress stitch in M, leaving the cast on edges open. Repeat for the second ear. Take the tail and match the two edge seams WS together. Pin and sew up from the cast on edge to cast off edge using a mattress stitch in M.

Step 2
Use the scrap yarn markers as a guide for placing the fox’s features. Take the first sewn up ear and place between the set of Colour A scrap markers. Pin and sew into place using M. Then repeat for the second ear, placing it between the Colour B scrap markers and sewing into place. Remove the markers. Embroider each eye on to the face between the scrap yarn Colour D and E markers. Do this by loosely sewing a straight line in the black yarn from marker to marker, then loop it downwards to form the eye. Add small stitch at the bottom of the loop to secure it in place and weave in the loose ends. Remove the markers. Place the nose at the centre of the snout, leaving a little space at the end as it will need to be sewn up. Sew into place using black yarn then weave in the loose ends.

Step 3
Lay the fox so the cast off edge is facing up. Then pin it together. When sewing up this seam just sew from the outer stitch of the cast off edge to the other outer cast off edge in M. Pull it tightly after a few stitches, but be careful not to pull it too tightly as the sole needs to stay flat and comfortable. Weave in all the loose ends.

Step 4
Place the tail a third of the way down from the cast on edge on the back of the seam of the slipper. Sew into place using M and weave in the loose ends. Slip on your finished foxes and get cosy – you could make matching pairs for your cubs, too.

About Louise Walker
Louise is a knitting designer and photography graduate who can be found running her business, Sincerely Louise, from her Brixton studio. She loves creating animal-inspired pieces, particularly her ‘faux taxidermy’. She’s also an aspiring gardener, always tending to new plants once she’s killed the old ones. www.sincerelylouise.co.uk